PARIS (AP) — Unveiling the world’s premier lipstick. Introducing the groundbreaking modern perfume. Presenting the revolutionary pivoting toothbrush. Showcasing the original Nivea cream and serum. And delving into the intimate secrets of Queen Elizabeth II. These awe-inspiring treasures reside within Guerlain’s inaugural archive, an extraordinary compilation that breathes life into the remarkable history of the iconic French cosmetic company.
Granting exclusive international media access to the recently unveiled archive, Guerlain opens the doors to a clandestine repository of marvels, nestled away from public view by the Seine River in Paris. Within this treasure trove, a wealth of documents and enigmatic artifacts spanning three centuries await, each bearing a unique and captivating story.
What adds to the archive’s allure is the fact that the company, which pioneered modern perfumery when it was established in 1828, had not previously assembled such a collection of its own history.
“It’s our little secret,” said Ann Caroline Prazan, Guerlain’s heritage director, as she carefully curated the archive over the course of several years, sifting through a vast array of artifacts. “Narrowing down 18,000 pieces to just 400 was a challenging task, considering the expanse of time they represented, but we managed it… Some of these items are incredibly delicate, and I’m afraid to even touch them.”
This ambitious endeavor owes its existence to Prazan’s unwavering passion and patience. Amidst the aromatic haze of perfumes, she regales tales of Guerlain’s groundbreaking innovations and illustrious clientele, which include French Empress Eugenie, Josephine Baker, Grace Kelly, Jacqueline Kennedy, Barbra Streisand, Margaret Thatcher, and the late British queen.
As Prazan carefully handled the archive’s most prized possession—a lipstick created in 1870, housed in a contemporary-looking gold casing—she reverently removed her white gloves, as though performing a sacred ritual.
“It’s remarkably modern,” she whispered, delicately operating the push-up mechanism to reveal a perfectly preserved dark Bordeaux wax pigment, still intact after 153 years.
The story behind this refillable lipstick is as remarkable as everything else within the archive. According to Prazan, an employee of Aime and Gabriel Guerlain stumbled upon a candlemaker’s shop during a stroll, and the wax and colored pigments within sparked a eureka moment.
During that era, women used cumbersome brushes to apply lip color from tubs of powdered pigment. Witnessing the candlemaker’s tools, the Guerlain employee conceived the “mad” idea of creating a stick-like lip cosmetic made from wax, forever revolutionizing the industry.
“That seemingly insignificant object forever revolutionized women’s makeup,” she exclaimed.
Prazan also acquired the world’s first-ever lipliner, elegantly encased in gold, and a third item—an enigma to an Associated Press journalist. It turned out to be a liner used by women to paint blue veins on their arms and necks, a popular technique in late 19th-century Paris to achieve a paler complexion. Thankfully, Prazan assured, this practice has fallen out of fashion.
One could attribute the meticulous preservation of the archive’s pieces to Guerlain’s status as a family-run house, spanning five generations. Although the company was acquired by luxury conglomerate LVMH in 1994, it has successfully maintained its unique identity.
Innovation, extending beyond the realm of perfume, remains a hallmark of the brand. Among the archive’s treasures is a patent for a pivoting toothbrush. Documents unveil a design from 1845, resembling a precursor to today’s electric toothbrush.
A jar of moisturizing cream named Nivea, discovered tucked away in a drawer, tells another story that bridges the past and present. The cream, formulated with ingredients to lighten the skin of European women, was sold by Guerlain, eventually giving rise to the skincare company of the same name.
And then there’s the vintage bottle of Jicky, the world’s first modern perfume. Created in 1889, it revolutionized the market with its concept of a scent cocktail—incorporating multiple notes rather than a single tone as seen in previous fragrances. Jicky boasted hints of spice, lemon, lavender, wood, and vanilla, along with the inclusion of synthetic ingredients. It holds the distinction of being the world’s oldest continuously produced perfume.
The collection often feels more like a condensed timeline of significant moments in the lives of historical figures than a conventional archive.
Queen Elizabeth II, immortalized in a photograph adorning one of the walls, exudes elegance as she dons a glamorous white fur stole. Legend has it that her fondness for Guerlain’s L’Heure Bleue perfume was so profound that she emptied a bottle and refilled it with the oil from her own 1952 coronation. This precious memento was cherished for years, a testament to the late monarch’s emotional attachment to the fragrance.
On another shelf of the archive, a gleaming bottle captures attention with its irresistible allure. Prazan reveals that this fragrance was created for the baptism of the queen’s uncle, years before he ascended to the throne as King Edward VII and subsequently made history by abdicating for love.
While the archive remains a well-guarded secret, the brand has curated an exhibition accessible to the public, commemorating the 170th anniversary of its most iconic design—the Bee Bottle. Named “Chère Eugénie,” the exhibit graces Guerlain’s Champs-Élysées boutique until September 4th.
Within the exhibition, the original Bee Bottle—a historical artifact—is showcased like a crown jewel, its hand-painted bee reliefs radiating light. Crafted in 1853 for the wedding of Empress Eugénie and Napoleon III, the bee symbolizes not only the French imperial emblem but also the emblem of Clovis, the first king of the Franks. To this day, it remains an enduring symbol of Guerlain’s legacy.
To celebrate the Bee Bottle’s anniversary, a group of 11 renowned international artists and actors, including Charlotte Rampling and Audrey Tautou, embarked on a creative endeavor, producing a captivating series of photographs inspired by this iconic vessel.
Guerlain’s essence can be defined as having one foot rooted in the past while keeping a keen eye on the future—an ethos that the company, with its long-standing presence, has refined to perfection.
“I plan meticulously for the future, envisioning developments even a century ahead,” Prazan remarked, tidying away her cherished objects, some of which have witnessed nearly two centuries. “I am confident that the house will endure for that long, far beyond our own lifetimes. How many individuals can genuinely make such a claim?”
